Mercato San Ambrogio

The Mercato San Ambrogio is located only a short distance from the Piazza Santa Croce and is has quickly risen to my list of favorite places in Florence. Ever since planning my stay in Florence I had been anticipating the experience of shopping at a “real Italian market” with “real Italians.” The Mercato Centrale was a great disappointment as it was a “real Italian market” that has become like any major site in Florence, devoid of the “real Italians.” Every vendor spoke English, the produce was marked up astronomically high and even someone with my lack of food knowledge could see that it was mostly a show for tourists. Hungry and disappointed I had to turn to the good old supermarket for my shopping and there was nothing “Italian” about that.

Mercato San Ambrogio is about 40 minutes closer to our apartment then the other and though significantly smaller, it was also significantly better. Finally, I saw the scene I had been imagining. Old women gossiping and picking out the best tomatoes, tables and tables of seasonal vegetables and fruit, vendors who don’t hassle you because they know what they are selling speaks for its self. I finally found my “real Italians.” Outside are all the vendors with their fresh produce, cheese, honey, and anything else you might need. Inside are the meat markets, fish vendors, and a bakery where you can buy foccia straight out of the oven. Another grand discovery was inside is a ristorante where you can find first and second courses for around 4 euros vs. the 8-14 you are likely to spend anywhere else. Remember, the market closes down at 2 and after that you will find what looks like a deserted parking lot. Bring your phrase book though because those two blocks you walk from the city center make an enormous difference in the amount of English speakers you will find. My “real Italian market” comes only in Italian. This sounds silly, but it is shocking how “English” Florence has become. The almost non-existence of English speakers makes it a challenge at times, but I like that have to speak Italian. After all, we are in Italy.